The Bridge Room

The three hatted Bridge Room

When it’s a 3-hatted restaurant, just walking in the door can feel like breathing rarefied air in solemn silence. So I am delighted that the Bridge Room is instantly welcoming, cosy, and noisy – “people enjoying themselves without a filter” noisy – brilliant. The front of house and the service is so seamless and relaxed, so professional, that we basically don’t even notice it.

So no surprise that we’ve signed up for the 6 course chefs menu with the matching premium wine list, no point being half hearted about this.

First up is shaved snapper with single origin trout roe, cured in soy, dash, sea parsley and white sesame oil. It’s a sublimely fragile, almost translucent dish, and is well matched with a  Bruno Paillard champagne with the finest of light bubbles.

shaved snapper, single origin trout roe, cured in soy, dash, sea parsley, white sesame oil
shaved snapper, single origin trout roe, cured in soy, dash, sea parsley, white sesame oil
The Bridge Room Champagne
The Bridge Room Champagne

burnt celeriac butter

Fraser Island spanner crab is the next hero, it’s pickled and shelled, with celeriac, a burnt celeriac butter, fresh chestnut and winter leaves. I love the punch he burnt celeriac butter adds to the delicate spanner crab, and the Sancerre is a zingy accompaniment.

Fraser Island spanner crab, picked and shelled, celeriac butter, celeriac, fresh chestnut, winter leaves
Fraser Island spanner crab, picked and shelled, celeriac butter, celeriac, fresh chestnut, winter leaves
The Bridge Room, Sancerre
The Bridge Room, Sancerre

the raw best

Mmmm, the raw slivers of 9+ wagyu are spectacular, with real depth of flavour in the grilled enoki mushrooms, patron chilli, duck egg cream, horse radish and grilled seaweed. And it’s all wrapped up with a fine drop from Bourgogne.

Raw 9+ wagyu shoulder, grilled enoki mushrooms, patron chili, duck egg cream, horseradish, grilled seaweed
Raw 9+ wagyu shoulder, grilled enoki mushrooms, patron chili, duck egg cream, horseradish, grilled seaweed
The Bridge Room, Bourgogne, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
The Bridge Room, Bourgogne, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard

best quality Murray cod.

Now comes Murray cod at it’s sweetest and cleanest. It is cooked in butter, clams, Chinkiang black vinegar, celtuce, chilli threads and garlic. It goes down a treat with the Chablis premier cru, Montmains, Mise Du Domain Gerard Duplessis.

Murray cod cooked in butter, clams, Chinkiang black vinegar, celtuce, chilli threads, garlic
Murray cod cooked in butter, clams, Chinkiang black vinegar, celtuce, chilli threads, garlic
Chablis Premier Cru, Montmains, Mise du Domaine Gerard Duplessis
Chablis Premier Cru, Montmains, Mise du Domaine Gerard Duplessis

more to chew on

Our next delight is ash grilled duck, with prunes softened in Banyuls, burnt pear, grapes, orange, and whipped pear, making a very pleasantly sweet take on duck. However the chewiness of the duck did take a little away from this dish. Not so the wonderful Torbreck 2004 Factor, one of my very favourite wines.

Ash grilled duck, prunes softened in Banyuls, burnt pear, grapes, orange, whipped pear
Ash grilled duck, prunes softened in Banyuls, burnt pear, grapes, orange, whipped pear
The hatted Bridge Room, Torbreck 2004 The Factor
The hatted Bridge Room, Torbreck 2004 The Factor

sweet surprises

Now we are ready for the sweet dishes. The black sesame is whipped softly and comes with toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice and coconut sugar. The not-too-sweet sauternes-barsac is a good choice with this.

Whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice, coconut sugar
Whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice, coconut sugar
The Bridge Room, Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac
The Bridge Room, Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac

A dish called Perfumed Fruits sets high expectations, and meets them. This is a beautifully sharp fruity dish including longpepper ice-cream, persimmon, guava, lime curd and ginger bread. Longpepper is a revelation to me, here’s a native spice I need to have in my pantry! This one gets the full sweet treatment with a muscat.

Perfumed fruit, long pepper ice-cream, persimmon, guava, lime curd, ginger bread
Perfumed fruit, long pepper ice-cream, persimmon, guava, lime curd, ginger bread
The Bridge Room, Muscat
The Bridge Room, Muscat

Although it is called a six course menu, our eighth dish now appears for a final little taste explosion – mini fruit jubes and mini chocnutcaramelly balls with light little wafers – yum!

gel, chocolate ball, wafer @ hatted Bridge Room
gel, chocolate ball, wafer @ hatted Bridge Room

An extraordinary meal, possibly the most coherent meal I’ve ever eaten. I love the flavours of each dish and yet each one keeps ramping up and building on the one before. Undoubtably the sort of perfection that gets 3 hats, and plenty of foodie love from me.

Best bits: the 6 course chefs menu

Worst bits: the overly chewy duck

Where am I? The Bridge Room, 44 Bridge Street, Sydney, 2000

 

Vicki P Written by:

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