The three hatted Bridge Room
When it’s a 3-hatted restaurant, just walking in the door can feel like breathing rarefied air in solemn silence. So I am delighted that the Bridge Room is instantly welcoming, cosy, and noisy – “people enjoying themselves without a filter” noisy – brilliant. The front of house and the service is so seamless and relaxed, so professional, that we basically don’t even notice it.
So no surprise that we’ve signed up for the 6 course chefs menu with the matching premium wine list, no point being half hearted about this.
First up is shaved snapper with single origin trout roe, cured in soy, dash, sea parsley and white sesame oil. It’s a sublimely fragile, almost translucent dish, and is well matched with a Bruno Paillard champagne with the finest of light bubbles.
burnt celeriac butter
Fraser Island spanner crab is the next hero, it’s pickled and shelled, with celeriac, a burnt celeriac butter, fresh chestnut and winter leaves. I love the punch he burnt celeriac butter adds to the delicate spanner crab, and the Sancerre is a zingy accompaniment.
the raw best
Mmmm, the raw slivers of 9+ wagyu are spectacular, with real depth of flavour in the grilled enoki mushrooms, patron chilli, duck egg cream, horse radish and grilled seaweed. And it’s all wrapped up with a fine drop from Bourgogne.
best quality Murray cod.
Now comes Murray cod at it’s sweetest and cleanest. It is cooked in butter, clams, Chinkiang black vinegar, celtuce, chilli threads and garlic. It goes down a treat with the Chablis premier cru, Montmains, Mise Du Domain Gerard Duplessis.
more to chew on
Our next delight is ash grilled duck, with prunes softened in Banyuls, burnt pear, grapes, orange, and whipped pear, making a very pleasantly sweet take on duck. However the chewiness of the duck did take a little away from this dish. Not so the wonderful Torbreck 2004 Factor, one of my very favourite wines.
Now we are ready for the sweet dishes. The black sesame is whipped softly and comes with toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice and coconut sugar. The not-too-sweet sauternes-barsac is a good choice with this.
A dish called Perfumed Fruits sets high expectations, and meets them. This is a beautifully sharp fruity dish including longpepper ice-cream, persimmon, guava, lime curd and ginger bread. Longpepper is a revelation to me, here’s a native spice I need to have in my pantry! This one gets the full sweet treatment with a muscat.
Although it is called a six course menu, our eighth dish now appears for a final little taste explosion – mini fruit jubes and mini chocnutcaramelly balls with light little wafers – yum!
An extraordinary meal, possibly the most coherent meal I’ve ever eaten. I love the flavours of each dish and yet each one keeps ramping up and building on the one before. Undoubtably the sort of perfection that gets 3 hats, and plenty of foodie love from me.
Best bits: the 6 course chefs menu
Worst bits: the overly chewy duck
Where am I? The Bridge Room, 44 Bridge Street, Sydney, 2000